A Hairstyle Glossary

Here is a fantastic article from Oprah about understanding the language that hairstylist’s use when discussing your hair.

Beauty Gazette: Understanding Hairstylist Speak

Even seasoned salon veterans like me can sometimes be baffled by the inscrutable, often peculiar, language of hairstylists. Recently, for example, my stylist suggested a “broken baby-doll cut.” “A what?” I said. He described a style with bans and blunt ends, with a few shorter, uneven layers in the back- like the somwhwat raggedy hair on a favorite old doll. (I got the cut, and it’s cuter than it sounds.) Here’s a brief glossary to common hairspeak terms that could leave you stumped in the stylist’s chair. – K.S.

Beachy: Hair that’s a bit wavy, with a wind-tousled finish; often created with a thickening or saltwater-based spray or gel.

Choppy: A cut in which the ends all vary slightly in length; stylists often use a razor to achieve this effect. (But if you don’t have straight hair—and a lot of it—refuse the razor.)

Giving Hair Movement: Usually involves adding layers from midlength to ends, making the style feel lighter and bouncier.

Overdirecting: Blowing out the hair to one side, then flipping it to part it on the other side for added volume.

Piecey: Ends are defined and separated, generally on shorter cuts; the stylist applies a wax or gel to the hair, then uses her fingers to break the hair into one-to-three-inch sections.

Structure: Characteristic of a defined, often geometric style, like a bob.

Texturizing: Either making very curly hair smoother and less bulky by cutting diagonally into it, or making flat hair appear fuller and lifted with layers (ask your stylist for clarification).

Thinning out: Removing bulk from the hair, usually by gliding a razor or thinning shears one inch from the scalp to the ends. (Beware if you have fine, dry, or damaged hair.)

Ten Uncertain Terms: Salon Terminology

The Ladies Home Journal ran an excellent article in their October 2011 issue about salon terminology. What you say may mean something very different to a professional. Here are a few words to help you at your next hair consultation.

Layers
“Most women are afraid of layering,” says Julien Sabatier, creative director of Dallas’s Frédéric Fekkai salon. “They think it means going shorter, whereas a stylist may simply be trying to give the hair movement.” If you’re okay with adding movement but don’t want a choppy look, tell your stylist you’d like to keep the density of your hair, Sabatier advises. Still layer-shy? Get a better sense of your stylist’s intentions by asking where the shortest layers will start and where the longest will finish.

Bangs
“They can be anything from a thick fringe to just a few strands swept across the forehead,” says Alan Gold, creative director of the Haig & Co. Salon in Bala Cynwyd, Pennsylvania. “So specify length, width, weight and angles.”

Ashy
To pros, this generally means a subtly whitish shade. “But if a client complains of ashiness, she often means dull or brassy,” says Galotti. “The colorist might then add warm or gold tones that the client never wanted.”

Auburn
This tends to suggest brown undertones to pros, but many clients envision something cranberryish, says Kathy Galotti, L’Oréal Professionnel colorist at New York City’s Rossano Ferretti Hair Spa. The term “chestnut” causes almost the opposite confusion: “Pros think reddish; many clients think rich brown.”

Trim
For a stylist, the standard trim is an inch or an inch and a half, says Sabatier. There’s never a more heartbroken client, however, than the one who’s been growing out her hair forever and thinks she’s giving up only a centimeter or two.

Lightening
“It’s a simple word but it can mean so many different things — from brightening to bleaching,” says Galotti. She finds that for blonde clients who want to go lighter, “golden versus pale” is a good conversation starter, whereas with darker-haired clients, “warm caramel versus neutral brown” is best.

Texture
“Misinterpreting this word can have particularly dire consequences,” says Gold. “Case in point: A client has wavy hair and asks for enhanced texture. The stylist goes in with a razor and gives her hair a full-on feathery look when all she really wanted was for her natural wave to be more prominent.”

Volume
“You may think you’re asking for a cut that allows for a little lift at the root,” says Gold. “But the stylist could just as easily assume you’re asking for all-over volume and will give you something that looks far more mushroomy than you’d had in mind.”

“Whatever you think is best.”
Okay, so it’s not a term, but this phrase is one you should never utter. “Granting total creative freedom generally backfires,” says Caroline Buckler, a colorist at New York City’s Marie Robinson Salon. “Say you decide to go darker on someone who’s super blond. Nine times out of 10, she’ll feel like a brunette — and won’t be happy about it.”

 

Thank you to Ladies Home Journal for such great work. Let us know if we can help clarify any terms or phrases we use at your next appointment!

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